Some of you may know that I race on frozen lakes in the winter up here in the NE. I have this problem with my VW. Hoping that some of you may have some ideas... thanks in advance.
I have a MK1 (1980ish) Rabbit "Ice Racer" (with a 1.8l thats been "worked" on). Not sure what the compression is, but its way higher than stock, and is running with race fuel. My problem is that it seems that the stock starter turns very slow and aways under protest. It always has, and it seems to be getting worse. I.E. not firing. It seems like the only way to start it now is by push starting it. That works every time. The starter may be weak or a bit older. Battery is fine. I'm wondering if it would be possible to get a diesel starter to work, and if there would be any benefit to trying this? Or is there's something else I'm not aware of? Any thoughts or help would be appreciated.
...and NOW for something COMPLETELY different!
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Ready to Write a Book
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:13 am Location: Saratoga Springs, NY Chassis: 812 Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1079944414 |
Robert Reed
N.E. SRF#03 A.M.E.C. VW#99 |
Have you ever tried a new starter? Have you looked into a aftermarket high torque starter? I can"t see the compression being so high that a good starter would not turn it over. As long as the battery is 100%. I'm not sure about bolt pattern and bendix gear on a diesel starter but you can take old one to autozone and match it up. Diesel would be high torque.
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Site Admin
Posts: 55
Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:52 pm Location: Gainesville, FL Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/ken.grammer |
Rob, you may want to join and ask that question on our sister forum, the GT Race Car forum. There are a lot of GTL VW guys that should be able to offer some assistance.
http://www.gt-racecar.com/forums/index.php Ken Grammer
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Dave Gills
#80 Red/Silver (chassis 504) Pittsburgh, Pa. |
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Add a C in front of old and you have your answer.............
Kevin Treffeisen |
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Connections. Wire gauge size. Tired old starter (brushes, shorted windings, etc).
Check all the connections between the starter, the solenoid and the little braid thingy between the solenoid and the starter body. "Clean & tight". Those battery cables (both the + & ground) get tired and corroded, sometimes internally under the jacket. #2 or #4 welding cable works better if you have a way of crimping the ends on. Bosch starters - the cool thing about them is that, in the '70's and '80's they used common design among 2 or 3 or 4 different sizes, and just varied the nose housings and the solenoid placement depending on the manufacturer's need. I used to "Frankenstein" Bosch starter between Volvo (race car), VW (race & ice cars), Alfa (street beater) and pretty much anything else I could find in my driveway. BMW, Saab, etc. etc. etc. are good parts donors. Spend 30 minutes taking a couple apart and you're an expert. I think I have a bunch of old Bosch starters & parts in the barn. There's a Hodaka Road Toad in Saratoga for sale....was looking for a way to get it west..... Call when appropriately imbibed. JW |
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Still Learning to Type
Posts: 30
Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:25 am Location: Unadilla, NY 13849 Chassis: 009 Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/#!/bradford.w.brooks |
Have you diagnosed your Starter issue yet? Let me know... I have a bit of a history w/ VWs... Ask The Treffster. LOL Hit me up on FB if you need or give me a call on my cell.
Brad You lose 100% of the races you don't start.
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