I'm doing my Gen 3 conversion this winter and I'm at the point where I'm removing my old wiring. But the manual says I need to keep my Rain Light wiring.
Well, the rain light wires are tightly wound inside the harness and that strange yellow mesh. Is there a shortcut to carving through the yellow mesh to free the rain light wires? It seems like making new rain light wires would be easier than trying to save the old ones. Ideas???
Gen 3 Wiring - Shortcuts?
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Kurt Breitinger
SEDIV #28 Chassis 494 |
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Forum Hermit
Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:45 pm Location: Oregon Chassis: 404 |
I would recommend that you buy the $495 chassis harness kit. I think it included as new wires for the taillight. Well at least we have a separate wire coming to the tailight with a new connector. One of our main reasons for buying the new harness was our gen2 wires were of the old style.
Having a new install with old wires just seems to be a problem looking for a place to happen. Plus the new wires just cleanup the install and will be trouble free,I hope,for years and years to come. Tallk with your local CSR for better input to your question. PS; we are a family run race team and did our own install with a help from Flat Out Racing , just take your time and look at others cars to create the style and assembly you want. |
Ready to Write a Book
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Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:14 pm Location: Los Gatos, California Chassis: 281 Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/Accelracetek-285423508982 |
You shouldn't need to cut open the old GEN2 harness and the upgrade isn't that hard. The biggest change in the new harness is most of the connections to the engine are in the new engine harness. You will have to deleted a lot of connections, shorten the starter solenoid wire, and separate any connections from the old ECU harness. The following information should help, it is out of a new conversion manual I am working on. Also, you can go to our website for detailed schematics and wire connection tables at http://www.accelracetek.com
Obsolete Functions/Wires – Dash of Harness Some of the connections and wire on the old GEN2 hardness are not required for the GEN3. Most of the engine sensors are connected into the ECU with the engine wire harness. The following functions and wires are not required and can be either cut off or removed. Obsolete Functions/Wires – Dash of Harness Color Size Connector Function Notes Lt Green 18 Spade Lug Water temperature gauge Red 18 Spade Lug Water temperature gauge 12 volts Black 18 Spade Lug Water temperature gauge ground Lt Brown 18 Spade Lug Oil Pressure gauge Lt Blue 18 Spade Lug Tachometer gauge Red 18 Spade Lug Tachometer gauge 12 volts Black 18 Spade Lug Tachometer gauge ground Obsolete Functions/Wires – Engine End of Harness Color Size Connector Function Notes Lt Green 18 Spade Lug Water temperature sensor Lt Brown 18 Spade Lug Oil Pressure sensor Black 14 1/4” Ring Lug Alternator ground Retained GEN2 Dash End Connections The following functions and wires are required for the GEN3. Some of the wires will need to be modified for the GEN3. Color Size Connector Function Other Pink 18 #8 Ring Lug IGN switch from Fuse panel 10 Amp Blue 18 #8 Ring Lug Rain light switch from Fuse panel 10 Amp Green 18 #8 Ring Lug Rain light from rain light switch Blue 18 .25” Spade Brake light switch from Fuse panel Grey 18 .25” Spade Brake light from brake light switch D Blue 18 F Bullet Alternator charge light from fuse panel 5 Amp Brown 18 F Bullet Charge bulb to alternator “T” plug Red 12 #10 Ring Lug Starter switch from master switch Not Fused D Blue 12 #10 Ring Lug Starter switch from starter switch Black 12 5/16 Ring Lug Ground to battery ground lug on frame Data Logger Plug Color Size Connector Function Notes Red 18 Spade Lug Old oil pressure gauge 12 volts Now the data logger 12V Black 18 Spade Lug Old oil pressure gauge ground Now the data logger ground Retained GEN2 Engine End Connections The following functions and wires are required for the GEN3. Some of the wires will need to be modified for the GEN3. Alternator Color Size Connector Function Red 18 T1 Battery side of master to charge light Black 18 T2 Brown field charge from the dash charge light Green 12 1/4” Ring Lug Alternator output stud to Master switch Starter Color Size Connector Function Notes D Blue 12 1P Packard Starter Solenoid from starter switch Needs to be cut shorter Brake light connector Color Size Connector Function White 18 P1 Splice to black to chassis ground eyelet Red 18 P2 Splice to grey to brake light switch Black 12 P3 Splice to green to rain light switch Master Switch Color Size Connector Function Yellow 18 3/8” Ring Lug Switched side of master to Alternator Red 12 3/8” Ring Lug Switched side of master to fuse panel Green 12 3/8” Ring Lug Battery side of master to Alternator Bruce Richardson - AccelRaceTek LLC |
Hi Kurt and Happy New Year! Hope to see you at VIR majors.
I bought the new Gen3 harness because my old harness had those old style pesky huge connectors near the battery. My harness also harked from the Renault days giving me a good excuse to replace. I also replaced the large red and black cables to and from our starter. If your harness is new enough and you're patient, using what you have and thanks to guys like Bruce, it can be done. In my opinion, if you have those old style large connectors near your battery, I would not risk using the old style harness. Good luck! Mark Fick
I'm pretty confident my last words will be 'well shit that didn't work' |
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Thanks for the advice guys.
I did purchase the new harness, but the manual says to reuse a few wires - some of which are the rain light wires. So, that's what I was trying to do. It appears that my rain light wires run through the smaller harness, so I was trying to carve them out of there. If there are indeed rain light wires in the new harness, I'll give the schematic a hard look to determine where they are. Kurt Breitinger
SEDIV #28 Chassis 494 |
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it's been a couple years, Kurt, since my conversion, but I don't remember anything special about using old wires for our rain light. It's required on all our cars and I'd be surprised if it wasn't in the new harness. You are on you own for our red track sensor (can't remember it's name - it's New Years haha) in terms of wiring it into our master switch.
All the wiring for the Gen3 dash will include the rain light switch and rain map switch and its associated light. I would suggest you buy a couple more of those switch covers like on our main toggle switch for the rain map and pit limiting switches. Saves inadvertently hitting them in the heat of battle. Mark Fick
I'm pretty confident my last words will be 'well shit that didn't work' |
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Needs a Life!!!
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Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:45 pm Location: Daytona Beach, FL |
All the wires in new harness are there. Rain light,brake switch ect. Remove old harness. You do not need anything from that unless you are running the analog gauges on dash. You can reuse those wires if you are. If you are going with data like AIM it will all come from ECU and you do not have to have them.
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Thanks Tony. That’s exactly what I needed to know. I haven’t received the main harness yet, because it was back ordered. I won’t spend any time fooling with the old harness. Kurt Breitinger
SEDIV #28 Chassis 494 |
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Needs a Life!!!
Posts: 1200
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:38 am Location: Sunnyvale, CA Chassis: 068 415 Facebook Page: http://facebook.com/HSERacing |
I think at least some of the early cars didn't have rain light wiring, some I've seen (including one last week) have a separate wire run outside the harness. The brake light wiring was in the harness...
Dave Harriman
"It looks crazy, I understand. But, we only live once and I am going to give it a good try." - Alex Zanardi |
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