hi folks
I am going to do some more prep on my SRF and was going to look at the wheels to see how freely they rotate. They seem like they have a fair amount of drag. For example, the front wheels won't make one full rotation unless I spin them very hard (with front in the air of course )
I have several items I am going to look at before going back to WGI again in September, and wheel bearings/grease/etc and maybe brake drag was on the list. Any advice on front or back drag issues and/or what I should expect would be appreciated.
Thanks again!!
wheel drag
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Forum Hermit
Posts: 175
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:20 am Location: Near Watkins Glen, NY Chassis: 009 Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/RaceVoiceLLC/ |
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Well Steve I had this same problem this year and in my case it was two different problems. One was a sticking caliper piston and the other was a bad wheel bearing. This last problem was on a fairly new as in two weekend old bearing. I ended up having a new hub and bearing put on the knuckle at the July Sprints. There could be other reasons in your case.
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Forum Hermit
Posts: 175
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:20 am Location: Near Watkins Glen, NY Chassis: 009 Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/RaceVoiceLLC/ |
thanks, the guys at motion dynamics said to take my calipers off and put new slide bushings on it, grease them up nice. I am not sure how much 'drag' there may be, but it seems like the wheels should spin free-er then they do. so I am going to play with it some more....still in my quest to get it up near 116-120mph before the bus-stop. I am topping out at a mere 110 mph
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Also replace those rubber seals. They aid in pulling the piston back. I had a similar problem and replacing them made a huge difference in the piston retracting
It's better to be last on the grid at a race track, than have pole position at the Funeral Home.
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Forum Hermit
Posts: 175
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:20 am Location: Near Watkins Glen, NY Chassis: 009 Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/RaceVoiceLLC/ |
thanks lee! prep is starting tomorrow
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You can narrow the search by taking off the brake pads and then spinning the wheels.
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Lee: Do you mean the boot or the rubber seal on the piston? PS: Who here runs with the rubber dust boots on the pistons? The boots were not on my brakes when I got the car, and I've done a full rebuild (replacing the "wiper" seal on the piston that resides inside the cylinder). The pistons (steel) had a hard residue near the face of the piston that I was able to clean off, but I assume the boots would reduce or eliminate this residue (which I presume is from brake dust). |
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Forum Hermit
Posts: 175
Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:20 am Location: Near Watkins Glen, NY Chassis: 009 Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/RaceVoiceLLC/ |
that's the first thing I was going to do, take all the brakes off (calipers/etc) and maybe disconnect the cv joints for the rear, and then see how freely they spin and go from there. lots of brake dust everywhere - guess I should use them less
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I am referring to the boots. Go to the Midwest store and read the description there. Old boots lose elasticity and will stop pulling the pistons back. I was having brake drag issues and after replacing the boots when I step on the brakes the pistons retract and the wheel spins free
It's better to be last on the grid at a race track, than have pole position at the Funeral Home.
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Needs a Life!!!
Posts: 766
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 1:03 am Chassis: 098 Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/#!/denny.stripling |
I haven't run the boots in... years. I think they are simply there to a) keep out dust and b) melt on heavy brake usage tracks .
The piston ring (rubber seal) is what provides the retraction force and should be "rebuilt" from time to time. I consider the boots 100% optional. Denny ____________
Bay 12, please. |
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