Being new to the SCCA and the SRF's, I wondered if some things could be modified without braking the rules. I did a brief skim on the 838 page rule book and didn't find anything that specifically addressed:

Shifters - The SRF I'm working on is difficult at best to shift, want to make it smoother and shorter throw. There has to be a better option than the floppy shift knob that it currently has.

Brakes - Are there certain pad requirements? In regards to brakes, how many of you bleed and flush the system between qualifying runs? Races?

Computer enhancements - I assume not allowed, but asking anyway.

Aerodynamics - How big of a part does this play in to the SRF's?

Body mods - due to a visit with the tire wall and frequent removal of the body pieces, the latches on the side of the rear panel and on top of the front seem difficult to work with, are there options?

Thanks,

Tim

purple venom wrote:Being new to the SCCA and the SRF's, I wondered if some things could be modified without braking the rules. I did a brief skim on the 838 page rule book and didn't find anything that specifically addressed:

Shifters - The SRF I'm working on is difficult at best to shift, want to make it smoother and shorter throw. There has to be a better option than the floppy shift knob that it currently has.

Brakes - Are there certain pad requirements? In regards to brakes, how many of you bleed and flush the system between qualifying runs? Races?

Computer enhancements - I assume not allowed, but asking anyway.

Aerodynamics - How big of a part does this play in to the SRF's?

Body mods - due to a visit with the tire wall and frequent removal of the body pieces, the latches on the side of the rear panel and on top of the front seem difficult to work with, are there options?

Thanks,

Tim

I'll give you the answers I know are correct, and see what other say on the others.

> Brake pads are spec. Hawk makes them just for the SRF.
> You can fix your own body parts if they are damaged, but it must be restored to original configuration. No aero changes allowed. Bodies fit together sloppily, and I'm not sure if a nice fitting body affects performance.
> No computer changes allowed.

I don't know about the other stuff. But I do see stuff in the paddock that makes me wonder. Variations in body latches, brake ducting and little bits of home-brewed hardware here and there ...

Shifters - no mods are allowed - BUT - you can fit an apex helicopter joint to the rear U joint location, and replacing the other ujoint if it has play is recommended. There is some adjustment to the rod end that supports the shifter that may help, too. Although technically not a "listed" mod a slight bend in the shift lever toward the driver can help with clearance for the shift to 5th. Also make sure the shift linkage is not hitting the seat in the very back - hammers help on Butlers! They really don't shift badly if everything is adjusted and the joints are good.

Brakes -you get a choice of one set - Hawk from the CSR. In regards to brakes, how many of you bleed and flush the system between qualifying runs? (never) Races? (only when calipers are rebuilt, although bleeding may occur between rebuilds)

Computer enhancements - never, no.

Aerodynamics - How big of a part does this play in to the SRF's? not much, drafting is the best aero mod

Body mods - due to a visit with the tire wall and frequent removal of the body pieces, the latches on the side of the rear panel and on top of the front seem difficult to work with, are there options?
There are two styles of latch, the all metal and rubber types, as far as i know either is legal. you can't mod the body, and yes they don't fit all that well even when new.

Thanks for the replies. The driver, not me, was having issues making the downshifts from 5th, 4th, and clunking 3rd in the middle of turn 1 at Gateway. This was causing some issues with his braking too. I noticed a lot of slop on the input side of the shaft by the seat, just looking for a way to tighten that up a bit for more positive feedback to the driver and shorter throws. Will look in to this apex helicopter joint, never heard of it. I will check the clearances too.

Gateway T1 is a tough downshift. Lots of stuff happening - transition, rough pavement, potential to be loaded up to the right hand side of the car during the downshift.
Make sure the motor mounts are all solid (not broken or significantly bent) as I've seen that interfere with downshifts in rare cases, especially in a place like T1 at Gateway.

Here is a link to the apex set up:
http://www.mummbrothers.com/SRF_Stuff/SRFMainPage.htm

Thanks! For those of you that have this, worth the price to change to it?

http://www.mummbrothers.com/SRF_Stuff/P ... oducts.htm

I would check the condition of the u-joints you have, they can get pretty sloppy, Also make sure the pins are tight and the holes in the shaft haven't opened up.

Also make sure the saddle between the rear u-joint and the trans is installed properly...

Ok, we took apart the entire shift linkage yesterday. The rear u-joint to saddle - Out of the tranny, the mating surface is 'keyed' so the U-joint can only attach one way, however, the u-joint only has a bolt through it. Should it have some teflon bushings in it? If so, we need a smaller bolt. Also, at the shifter, at the first u-joint, the shift rod had a large wear burr on it and the snap rings were rusted through. The 'heim' joints, how free should they be. Ours has a lot of play and are pretty loose. This is a 1989 chassis, so I suspect these have been in since the car was new. Also, the heim joints can be adjusted it appears in and out, is there an ideal spot for these to be adjusted?

Apologize for all the dumb questions, completely new to me.

Actually...I kind of like mine a little loose and floppy.

It makes the pattern bigger.