Outer CV Joint Removal

Technical and Repair Discussions

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 1:06 pm
It's been along time since I rebuilt an axle on an SRF, anybody have tips for getting the outer cv off? Can get it to budge.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:30 pm
The snap ring looks like this http://www.specparts.com/axl031-snap-ring-outer-cv-to-axle the tips of the ring are between 2 of the balls. The ring needs to be spread apart carefully while lightly tapping the joint off. It doesn't reuire as much force as it does finesse.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 11:40 pm
Thanks Steve.

The old double secret snap ring, I was thinking it was a compression ring.
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 9:30 am
specdoc wrote:The snap ring looks like this http://www.specparts.com/axl031-snap-ring-outer-cv-to-axle the tips of the ring are between 2 of the balls. The ring needs to be spread apart carefully while lightly tapping the joint off. It doesn't reuire as much force as it does finesse.


Good info that I used (and will use) to rehab my CV. Once you find the gap in the inner race, the clip is fairly accessible. There are Youtube videos but they either gloss over the method for unlocking the CV joint, or in one case the mechanic just bashes it off past the ring with a sledge hammer! Like Steve says, more finesse that force.

So, for the re-installation, I assume that I reverse the process?


PS: So is it correct to say that the inner CV joint is Ford Escort, the outer CV is Renault Alliance and the shaft is custom SRF?
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 9:38 pm
Are you putting on a new outer or putting the old one back on? Reason I ask is that it's possible to mess up the snap ring (especially with the "bigger hammer" method). A new CV will have the snap ring already in place; trick it to be sure that you seat it firmly (tug on it to make sure.) Having it come apart because it's not seated can get expensive really fast!
Bob Breton - SRF 51 - San Francisco Region
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 10:38 am
breton wrote:Are you putting on a new outer or putting the old one back on? Reason I ask is that it's possible to mess up the snap ring (especially with the "bigger hammer" method). A new CV will have the snap ring already in place; trick it to be sure that you seat it firmly (tug on it to make sure.) Having it come apart because it's not seated can get expensive really fast!


New outer. It comes with a new snap ring. Thanks for the tip on "tugging" on it. The big hammer will stay in the drawer.
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 10:51 am
It "should" go on easier than it came off. The end of the axle is slightly rounded, so the ring doesn't have to be opened quite as wide...
Dave Harriman
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:19 pm
When putting it back on, I usually put the half shaft in a vice and use a plastic-headed hammer to persuade the CV back on... being sure to hold the CV tight against the splines when persuading it on. Doing so makes sur ethere is no excessive shock on the CV.
Dan

Formerly Teamwork Motorsports #99, Chassis #460
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 7:37 pm
srf99 wrote:When putting it back on, I usually put the half shaft in a vice and use a plastic-headed hammer to persuade the CV back on... being sure to hold the CV tight against the splines when persuading it on. Doing so makes sur ethere is no excessive shock on the CV.


Dan: So you let the taper at the end of the half shaft push through the snap ring (rather than manually opening the snap ring)?
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 11:44 pm
GregCirillo wrote:
srf99 wrote:When putting it back on, I usually put the half shaft in a vice and use a plastic-headed hammer to persuade the CV back on... being sure to hold the CV tight against the splines when persuading it on. Doing so makes sur ethere is no excessive shock on the CV.


Dan: So you let the taper at the end of the half shaft push through the snap ring (rather than manually opening the snap ring)?


Yes. If you put a little bit of grease on the splines, it will pop right in. As others have said, you want to make sure it is well seated, and can normally hear it "click" into place.
Dan

Formerly Teamwork Motorsports #99, Chassis #460

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