Hi Everyone,

I am working on the car during the off season here in the NE and I am looking to update the harness mounts to include the ladder bar extension kit that I got from my CSR but I was wondering if any of you have any advice or photos of the install that you might want to share. Is it a "motor out" job? I noticed that it had mounts for bolting it in but are most people welding it into place?


Thanks!

This does not require the motor out but you do need to pull the fuel cell and rear firewall to do a proper job. If you do not pull the motor it will probably be easier if you did pull the header. While it can be bolted in it would be better to weld.

Since you will already have the fuel cell out I strongly recommend you do the fuel pressure volume test beforehand to see if you will need to install the in tank fuel pump kit. You would be SURPRISED how many cars fail that test.

Thanks Steve, as a new person to the class forgive me for asking but when you refer to the fuel pressure test do you mean "22-24 Oz per 30 sec @ 40 psig & 13.2 volts" ?

ctkellett wrote:Thanks Steve, as a new person to the class forgive me for asking but when you refer to the fuel pressure test do you mean "22-24 Oz per 30 sec @ 40 psig & 13.2 volts" ?

Yes and remember that is sampled at the return side of the fuel rail.

Thanks Steve, I did do the test and I am guessing that I am in need of a fuel new pump. My tests resulted in an average of 14 oz of fuel @ 40PSI for 30 seconds, battery voltage @ 12.4 What is guess I am not understanding is that if I increase the flow of the pump, and the area that the fuel is flowing into is a fixed diameter ( fuel rail ) won't I increase the fuel PSI at the same time when adding flow? So, if that is the case, I am looking at the surge box, fuel pump, and a adjustable fuel PSI. Is the fuel cell service in which the surge box is added a DIY job or does it require a trip to the fuel cell manufacture for mounting?

If that is all the fuel you're getting, you're getting a lot of air bubbles too. If you use a clear hose, you'll see the bubbles (likely big ones, in your case). Replace those bubbles with fuel and your volume will go up without a pressure increase.

I rebuilt my fuel cell a couple years ago. There are things one could screw up but nothing about it is terribly difficult. The new fuel pump kit is supposed to be DIY. Mine is on its way.

Michael Hausknecht (NE #60)

I think you are to be at 13.2 volts. You might want to put a charger on battery one you can go from 2 amp to 10 amp and check voltage. Try the flow test again at 13.2 or as close as you can get and see if it changes. Like Steve said disconnect at the return line (small fitting) at fuel rail. Run hose (clear if you can) to the ground. I use a paint mixing cup that is marked with ounces on it. Connect wire at test term (orange and black) to ground. Use master switch for my off and on. I use a fitting from Ford it has a brabed end and put a clear hose on it so it goes into the return side on the fuel rail, makes it clean and easy.

All,
Just my .02... let me start by saying that we should all treat what Mikey D says as basically the gospel.
That being said, I have tested my car with two different fuel pumps, and we tested all of the cars in one of the prep shops here in Texas for fuel flow. If I recall correctly, only one of five "passed" the test. Each of the cars ran very well with excellent AFR (mine included which varies from 12-16oz in 30 seconds, tested with two different fuel pumps).
My point is that I suspect this test is more an indication of how much "room for error" you have in your fuel flow rather than "if <22 ozs, your motor is running lean and in trouble".
I defer to Mikey, but essentially all I'm saying is that based on my anecdotal evidence (multiple data points), "failing" that test should not indicate an immediate panic button situation. If you fail the test and don't have AFR though, I would highly recommend that you replace your fuel pump or get AFR installed.

I plan to put the new fuel pump in at some point, I just didn't have time before the Runoffs and my car seemed to run well with my apparently lower fuel volume.
Just my .02... again, when in question though, go with what Mikey says!

I have the specs for the pump around somewhere, and it sure seems like 22 oz in 30 seconds is more than the specified capacity of the pump...

tonyrn99 wrote:I think you are to be at 13.2 volts. You might want to put a charger on battery one you can go from 2 amp to 10 amp and check voltage. Try the flow test again at 13.2 or as close as you can get and see if it changes.

Thanks Tony, the directions from MB mention both voltages in them, at one point early on in the chart it mentions 13.2 volts measured at the pump and in the body of the directions it said anywhere from 12.0-12.6 volts and to not use a battery charger while doing the test. I did do it at both voltages with very little change in the results, at the higher voltage I saw up to 16-17 oz and at the lower rate in the 14-15 oz range. I did use a clear tube on the return line and noticed no real air bubbles during the tests.

Dave, I would love to see if you have the specs on the pump.