IDLE?

Technical and Repair Discussions

Still Learning to Type
Still Learning to Type
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Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 12:08 am
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2020 9:42 pm
Open PE Monitor and connect to the car. Find the Idle Air Control" menu, under the Tuning menu. Warm up the car and look at the "current position". Then look at "Park Position" - it should be about 10 higher (you can play with this number so that when you quickly close throttle it first settles about 200 rpm higher than target idle).

Also, I think the SRF throttle is similar to FE/FE2, and you can adjust the throttle stop. If you adjust it in so that the PE3 idle position is 0 (or 1 or 2), then basically IAC is not engaged when the engine is warm. Setting a slightly higher park position keeps some air flowing even when the throttle snaps shut. If the position to maintain idle is higher than park position, the IAC will open and maintain idle, but when you come in hot and disengage the clutch, it won't react fast enough, and will stall.

You need to "Send to ECU" to make the adjustment, and if you do adjust the throttle stop, make sure to reset you zero and full positions. And then "Send to ECU" again.
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Novice Typer
Novice Typer
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Location: Maplewood
PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2020 5:31 pm
Thought about that one, too but it looks like a password is required to get into that part of the ECU.
svenmueller_77

Still Learning to Type
Still Learning to Type
Posts: 28
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Location: Farmington Hills, MI
PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2020 5:53 pm
In that case, I would at least try to screw in the idle set screw until the RPMs go up and don't settle back down. Do it at 160° or higher. Then you'll know the IAC position is zero, even if you can't display it. Presumably the config has a park value above zero, and it should stop stalling.

Update: The idle stopper is not like the FE, so may be more difficult to adjust. Also, any CSR should be able to perform an adjustment similar to what I initially described. They have the unlock code.
Last edited by LarryWinkelman on Sun May 24, 2020 8:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Needs a Life!!!
Needs a Life!!!
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Chassis:
595
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 11:32 am
The tie wrap between the idle screw and throttle is easier than messing with the idle screw to get minimal throttle to keep the engine running. Once you get past the warmup process to get the IAC set, IAC should work properly to control idle speed at both cold and hot temperatures (unless it's truly defective.)
Bob Breton - SRF 51 - San Francisco Region
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Still Learning to Type
Still Learning to Type
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Chassis:
198
PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 4:00 pm
Bob is correct using a tie wrap. I don’t know how much it matters, but I was told to let the car heat up to at least 200 degrees for the calibration to be successful. That seemed to work OK.
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Ready to Write a Book
Ready to Write a Book
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PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 2:54 am
This is a not so common problem with conversions. The throttle body works great most of the time but some don't close correctly and need to be modified or replaced. Mike at SCCA-E can upgrade yours at a limited cost, work through your CSR. The other option is to get another one from a junkyard or Rock Auto FORD > 1994 > ESCORT > 1.9L L4 > Fuel & Air > Throttle Body. Bruce @ AccelRaceTek
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Novice Typer
Novice Typer
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Location: Maplewood
PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2020 9:49 pm
It worked,

here is the instruction I got:

[First thing I would do .... if you can where the car is stored...is use a std 6” tyrap and put the pointed tip under the throttle stop screw...it’s just to the inside of the throttle cable wheel on the throttle body.

Make sure your fluids are topped up (oil and coolant) start the engine and let it run at about 2000/2400 RPM till it’s about 200 F, shut it down, (turn off the IGN switch) remove the tyrap and restart it right away....the temp range for it to set the offset is 195 to 205 F...if when you restart the engine, it idles fairly smoothly it should set an offset in 10 or 15 seconds...if not you can shut it down and try again....one of the conditions for it to set an offset is a time period per ECU “on” cycle that is 10 seconds, another condition is it needs to idle +/- 60 rpm of the target...which at 180 to 205 deg F is 1060 rpm.]


The tyrap did not work to get to the 2000rpm, for me it required 2 tyraps and a little more. But than everything worked well per instruction. Maybe that could be added to the install procedure as an alternative or 2nd step if the primary does not work???

I still have to test the car next weekend at RA to see if it is really working flawless and that it has good torque reserve but for now it made a very good impression.

See you at the sprints and thanks for all the comments and help.
Sven #77
svenmueller_77
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