Re: Wilwood Brakes and Penske Shocks
Posted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 12:35 pm
I'll put in my 2 cents. First, good luck on your winter efforts to return your Gen2 to the track. Reading what you have and what has been returned via this string, this is what I would do:
1. Keep the Koni's. Nothing wrong with them as the Penske's are a large investment at this juncture. You are allowed to run them. You can always budget for them later.
2. Replace or have the fuel cell rebuilt. I have read on here that there are vendors that do that. But if you plan on racing for the forseeable future, replace it.
3. In-tank fuel pump is nice but not mandatory to race the car. At least, I would send your outside fuel pump to Kinsler in MI. They will check it out and rebuild it if it needs it. But, if you are replacing your fuel cell and plan on eventually coming over the dark side with the rest of us, I'd buy and install the in-tank pump. It is much better for flow and pressure.
4. Mandatory to go to the Hawk brake pads and new rotors. It's an investment but a good one anyway. You will like them. New style calipers - not mandatory and not necessary. Find a Renault owner and they will still want your old good rotors and pads. Rebuild your calipers. Hopefully you have the newer style SS pistons with slotted ends.
5. Rebuild all your master cylinders. If you have Girling, they are rebuildable. Wilwoods of your era, no.
They make now a rebuildable Wilwood brake master cylinder if you have Wilwoods.
6. Injectors that have sat for that that long - send to Marren for checkout and possible rebuild.
7. Obviously checkout all suspension parts such as rod ends, tie rods, and ball joints. You do not need to buy the new tubular upper A-arms. Many of us still have the old style and they will be fine. Just check them out for excessive wear.
8. Wheel bearings - replace or at least tear them down and regrease for assurance you are ok.
9. With the loads on our rear suspension and you can budget for them, I would at least replace the rear hubs with the new style hubs as long as you are checking out your bearings. Not cheap, but a bearing failure is not cheap either if you are at a critical part of a track. If you can afford it, do the fronts too, but at least the rears first.
10. While you are in that neighborhood and your car does not have them, replace all wheel studs with the newer longer ones. Most of us would preach this to anyone in our class! NAPA has them.
11. Check and replace all cracked fuel and oil lines. Also, our large fuel fill hose is prone to cracking and general deterioration and worth replacing.
I am sure I have not covered every little detail but I trust the above will help. Good luck again!
1. Keep the Koni's. Nothing wrong with them as the Penske's are a large investment at this juncture. You are allowed to run them. You can always budget for them later.
2. Replace or have the fuel cell rebuilt. I have read on here that there are vendors that do that. But if you plan on racing for the forseeable future, replace it.
3. In-tank fuel pump is nice but not mandatory to race the car. At least, I would send your outside fuel pump to Kinsler in MI. They will check it out and rebuild it if it needs it. But, if you are replacing your fuel cell and plan on eventually coming over the dark side with the rest of us, I'd buy and install the in-tank pump. It is much better for flow and pressure.
4. Mandatory to go to the Hawk brake pads and new rotors. It's an investment but a good one anyway. You will like them. New style calipers - not mandatory and not necessary. Find a Renault owner and they will still want your old good rotors and pads. Rebuild your calipers. Hopefully you have the newer style SS pistons with slotted ends.
5. Rebuild all your master cylinders. If you have Girling, they are rebuildable. Wilwoods of your era, no.
They make now a rebuildable Wilwood brake master cylinder if you have Wilwoods.
6. Injectors that have sat for that that long - send to Marren for checkout and possible rebuild.
7. Obviously checkout all suspension parts such as rod ends, tie rods, and ball joints. You do not need to buy the new tubular upper A-arms. Many of us still have the old style and they will be fine. Just check them out for excessive wear.
8. Wheel bearings - replace or at least tear them down and regrease for assurance you are ok.
9. With the loads on our rear suspension and you can budget for them, I would at least replace the rear hubs with the new style hubs as long as you are checking out your bearings. Not cheap, but a bearing failure is not cheap either if you are at a critical part of a track. If you can afford it, do the fronts too, but at least the rears first.
10. While you are in that neighborhood and your car does not have them, replace all wheel studs with the newer longer ones. Most of us would preach this to anyone in our class! NAPA has them.
11. Check and replace all cracked fuel and oil lines. Also, our large fuel fill hose is prone to cracking and general deterioration and worth replacing.
I am sure I have not covered every little detail but I trust the above will help. Good luck again!