Fuel cell removal

Technical and Repair Discussions
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 8:36 pm
davep wrote:You could also switch to a Delphi Weatherpack 16 gauge connector/contacts which fit the application better.

DaveP


Thanks for the advice! (Amazon order placed) Anyone making the fuel pump swap in the future will thank you too. I wonder if Enterprises has received enough feedback to spec out a better connector?
My steel plate is fitted to the floor. Surge box is fitted in the foam and it's all in the cell. With new connectors I should be putting this all back together next week.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:43 pm
No problem. Let's go racing!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 10:03 pm
I noticed the ATL fuel cell has a note printed on it to ground the filler neck to the chassis. Does anyone have a separate ground wire from one of the bolt circles to the chassis? Mine did not when I took it out and I don't see one in the photo earlier in this thread. Cell will be going back in the car this weekend.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 8:54 am
ATL's instructions are general for all cars, not SRFs specifically. In many converted street cars, where the fuel bladder is the internal portion of an aftermarket fuel cell, the cell could require grounding to prevent static electrical discharges which could ignite fuel vapors.

In SRFs, the cells are intrinsically grounded to the chassis, so no further grounding strap is required (unless you want to ground the bottom of the car to the pavement with straps like F1 pit stop boxes ;) ).

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 9:24 am
Did my in-tank fuel pump upgrade this weekend. The instructions are great, and there is nothing that is particularly tricky. I used the Delphi connectors (which are still a bit fiddly) but I suppose the supplied connectors are worse!

Kudos to Mike D. on a good kit with good instructions.

PS: I would love for someone to make me feel better about the lifespan of that snap-on filter that sits in the tank on the pump inlet. I was surprised to see a filter added there. Even with practice, it's going to be a 3 hour job to swap that filter out. And every time you pull off the service plate, it's an opportunity to screw it up and create a leak.
Last edited by GregCirillo on Mon Jun 30, 2014 2:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:51 pm
I found out the hard way that my snap-on filter was clogged at the last race. I think the advice from one of the CSR's is to change this out once a year. I think I will do that from now on.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:45 pm
Do we need to put in (again) a pre-tank filter of some sort? I do *not* want to be having to get into my tank every year to clean a filter.
Am I alone in this?
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:26 pm
I bought a funnel at summit racing with a screen in the bottom. Then added a wad of cheese cloth. It catches all kinds if junk before it ever enters the cell. Not sure if it solves all the problem but it can't hurt.

I may try a coffee filter next time.
It's better to be last on the grid at a race track, than have pole position at the Funeral Home.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:35 pm
Lee Spuhler wrote:I bought a funnel at summit racing with a screen in the bottom. Then added a wad of cheese cloth. It catches all kinds if junk before it ever enters the cell. Not sure if it solves all the problem but it can't hurt.

I may try a coffee filter next time.


Funnel filters are almost as good as funnel cakes. Wonderful inventions. I've always poured my fuel through them. The filters, not the cakes.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:41 pm
I hope we don't have to access the fuel cell for normal (yearly) maintenance. If so, we need a better solution.
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