happy for the new rule

Check out the latest version of the Spec Racer! LBoth ligher weight and more powerful!!! Available soon, racing in 2015!

Forum Hermit
Forum Hermit
Posts: 161
Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2011 1:03 pm
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2016 9:53 am
took three of us to get the muffler open- so glad I will never have to do that again! Destroyed the end cap doing it. Anybody know if we can get replacement end caps?

was a small amount of the original packing in it.

Needs a Life!!!
Needs a Life!!!
Posts: 260
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:45 pm
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2016 6:21 pm
I would recommend that if you have not opened your muffler ever DONT. The material inside will be all but gone, if not completely gone. This is how it came. Should not be a problem. You will need to call your CSR for replacement. Southeast Spec Racer

Forum Hermit
Forum Hermit
Posts: 111
Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:32 pm
PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2016 6:47 pm
Hummmm.... I used PB Blaster penetrater. I put it on the muffler end cap and muffler sleeve and let it sit while I went to lunch for an hour. ( I raced the muffler three times up to this point) When I came back I marked one screw hole and the corresponding location on the end cap in case the holes were not symmetrical. I used a small punch and a medium ball-peen hammer and started tapping the punch on the end cap. Slowly it started to come apart, so I added more fluid. It took about 5 minutes to get it separated with no major damage to the end cap. I put some anitsieze on it when I reassembled it, but I'm not sure if the antisieze lasted due to the heat. I'll check it before the Homestead Major.
There was minimal amount of material in the muffler. However, as the new rule states, there can not be any material inside.
While I was in there, one of the screws that held the center pipe in place was loose.
Mick Robinson
User avatar
Still Learning to Type
Still Learning to Type
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:12 am

Chassis:
198
PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2016 8:51 pm
Mick, both screws fell out after the first weekend and the end cap rotated around the pipe. I've tried just about everything but I can not rotate the end cap back to get the screws back in even though the end cap feels loose on the pipe. My end cap has been easily removable so far and after two races I'm removing the packing that Enterprises sent to me earlier this year and there was literally no degradation in the material. Would have worked well for quite a few weekends based on what I saw.

Forum Hermit
Forum Hermit
Posts: 111
Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:32 pm
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 9:46 pm
I took the muffler apart again before Homestead and I had alot of material inside.

My problem is the tail pipe keeps coming off. I have put some safety wire and tywraps on the arm for the exhaust donut and when it comes off now, it at least stays on the car but flapping around.

My other item is the muffler rotates on the main header pipe. This points the exhaust directly onto the lower control arm. That arm must get really hot.

I have tried to tighten the clamps to the point that they bend and strip. Mike Davies came by and tightened them too, but still the muffle turns on the header. Trying to get the muffler off of the header is difficult so I know it's tight.

I guess I'll just run with a hot and black left rear lower control arm...
Mick Robinson

Still Learning to Type
Still Learning to Type
Posts: 32
Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:54 pm
PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 1:54 am
On my Sports2000 to keep exhaust pipes with slip joints and t-bolt clamps in alignment, we drilled a 3/16" hole in both pipes, and used a short (3/8"?) 10-32 flat head screw, the hose clamp would hold the screw in and the pipes wouldn't rotate relative to one another.
Last edited by David Ferguson on Tue Jul 11, 2017 6:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
Needs a Life!!!
Needs a Life!!!
Posts: 740
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:03 am
Location: Greenwich, Connecticut
Chassis:
860
PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 10:24 am
Mick Robinson wrote:I took the muffler apart again before Homestead and I had alot of material inside.

My problem is the tail pipe keeps coming off. I have put some safety wire and tywraps on the arm for the exhaust donut and when it comes off now, it at least stays on the car but flapping around.

My other item is the muffler rotates on the main header pipe. This points the exhaust directly onto the lower control arm. That arm must get really hot.

I have tried to tighten the clamps to the point that they bend and strip. Mike Davies came by and tightened them too, but still the muffle turns on the header. Trying to get the muffler off of the header is difficult so I know it's tight.

I guess I'll just run with a hot and black left rear lower control arm...


My tail pipe fell off for the second time after tightening the clamp to the point of distortion. Happened on to the pace lap at The Glen Major in Turn Two and right after the green the flying pipe damn near hit Pat Stringer in front of and me in the cockpit areas. It was tack welded on right after that.

Forum Hermit
Forum Hermit
Posts: 100
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:37 am
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:36 pm
My tailpipe is very loose at the coupling just below the collector, where the springs hold the two pieces together. As many of you have said, the pipe rotates there which causes the muffler to swing inward toward the frame, making the stinger tip point toward the LR control rod and contacting the frame. There is no clamp on this union, so there's nothing that can be tightened.

Has anyone come up with a resolution for this?

Needs a Life!!!
Needs a Life!!!
Posts: 200
Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:38 pm
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 6:13 pm
I suspect springs my fall under the listing of fastener. If so longer spring could be diagonal instead of up and down to provide directional stability. We did that on kart exhausts before

Return to Spec Racer Gen3

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 4 guests


cron