Tire feadback?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 8:21 pm
tonyrn99 wrote:I would think you are running low camber settings due to tire wearing to the outside. We are getting wear to the inside,more so than out side due to camber settings. This is in lefts or right hand tracks. Does not matter. wear will be more to the loaded side. It has always been this way. Maybe there is something to this picture. Should we dare try that? :idea:


I can't say for sure, but I think these guys are probably running at least the recommended camber and probably more...
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 11:54 am
Racer X wrote:My quick feedback on the tires.
For Gen3, the baseline set up is likely right around where you'll end up. We played a bit on either side of it and lo and behold, we ended up back near the middle I think.
We had terrible wear initially but I think that was due to a myriad of things. New car (gen3) + new track + new tires was a difficult equation and I got myself a bit wrapped around the axle trying to find the balance at Homestead.


Anyone figure out how much the Gen2 setup needs to change from the Gen3 Hoosier recommendation?
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 5:22 pm
Bruce,

I just had my car set up by Comprent. I asked about the difference between the Gen 2 and Gen 3 setup. I was told that the Gen 3 runs a little more camber in the rear, but is otherwise about the same. My guess is that some of the settings will probably change a little as the year goes on ... track dependent of course.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 8:12 pm
The Gen 2 likes a little more camber in the rear. That's what we did for Doug Meads Gen 2
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 1:51 pm
KKloepfer wrote:The Gen 2 likes a little more camber in the rear. That's what we did for Doug Meads Gen 2

OK. I had it backwards then.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:05 pm
Thanks, for the Gen2 what is "a little more", rear at 4 or ?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 4:08 pm
KKloepfer wrote:The Gen 2 likes a little more camber in the rear. That's what we did for Doug Meads Gen 2



Yes that makes more sense. I was thinking some adjustment would be needed for the heavier weight & increased rear weight bias.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 7:46 pm
Get the balance right, first. Start with recommended settings and stiffen the front sway bar from the recommended setting to start for the Gen 2. If balance is close, measure/monitor wear rate on inner/outer wear holes to identify ideal camber for best wear. Test from there to determine if additional camber changes improve performance (in either direction). Rinse/repeat as needed. Need to do this in a repeatable environment as your mileage and settings will vary depending on track characteristics. Small changes in sway bar setting make a measurable difference. Don't get hung up on the starting recommendations as there's a reason these are described in ranges rather than very specific tolerances.

My view is that most drivers will get the most value from the tires by starting with a well balanced car with camber set for a reasonable wear rate. Once you get to zero on the wear indicator, the tires are done. Consider left/right tire rotation to help even out the wear (moving left to right works - no need to dismount/flip the tires) before the depth indicator gets to zero. I tried to stretch a worn tire and not only did performance drop off, but the remaining tread started to peel off, which could easily cause a more catastrophic failure (initial cords are nylon, followed by steel - did not wait to see steel.)
Bob Breton - SRF 51 - San Francisco Region
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 10:15 am
What with the advantages of camber thrust offered by radials, the mantra has been,"More camber? Yes, please!" That's how we approached the Yoke A008 setups.

Looks like it's going to be a balance between setting cambers for maximum cornering force via more camber and managing tread life, as Bob Breton describes.

I won't be running my Hoosiers until it gets warmer in the spring. By then I hope guys will have identified the right combination of setups and tire rotation to get us up to 16 heat cycles of good performance before we see nylon.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 10:42 pm
Well, I just corded my first set of Hoosiers.

I'm going off of memory, but they had the following done to them:

6 practice sessions at Fontana, 20 minutes each
1 race at Fontana, 25 minutes
6 practice sessions at Buttonwillow, 15 minutes each
5 practice sessions at Willow Springs, 15 minutes each

Yep, that's 18 and they felt fast right up to the end. But of course, I'm a complete greenhorn driver, so the Hoosiers feel fast compared anything else I've ever driven.
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